What happens after 40 years in the life of a Cabernet Sauvignon?
2014 was one of the most tumultuous years of my life. After 19 years and 4 months at BevMo, I joined Wine.com to continue my journey as a wine professional. My journals were more like a labyrinth than an organized spread of Excel sheets. Speed dialing to 2023 and dealing with cancer has put a reset on my life that I did not anticipate. I have returned to 1974 in search of clues to what I am all about. On November 23, 2014, I attended a tasting of 1974 California Cabernet Sauvignons on their 40th birthdate. I first tasted this vintage when they were released in the mid to late 1970s. Here is my accounting of how they and I have fared.
Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Bello 1974 (Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA)
A group of wine collectors, writers, critics, and others assembled in Livermore, CA at The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards. Our assignment: Taste 18 wines for the highly acclaimed 1974 California vintage and one 1944 dry white wine. While my year was already filled with highs and lows, I was ready for the task and found it fascinating as well as educational.
· Wente Bros Dry Semillon “Dry Sauterne” 1944. As a young, emerging wine professional barely 21, I was advised by my seniors that dry Semillons can age well. I participated in many verticals proving that point. This wine is old looking and loaded with rancio (sherry-like nuances), yet its complexity is remarkable giving credence to the lessons I received in the 1970s. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price N/A
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· Heitz Cellars Pinot Chardonnay Lot Z-41, Napa Valley 1974. Well-known writer and wine judge Bob Thompson was a big fan of the Heitz wines and would often talk with me about them. I also recall spending hours one afternoon tasting old Chardonnays with Joe Heitz that were deep gold in color and rich in flavors. This wine is dark and offers intriguing aromas of kumquats and walnuts. Alive on the palate with tart nectarine flavors, this wine showed very well. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price N/A
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· Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Bottled Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains 1974. When Mount Eden Vineyards entered the scene with their 1972 vintages, they were one of the “hot” wineries. The winery’s Chardonnays, Cabernets, as well as their Pinot Noirs, provided a blueprint of what California could do and the Golden State could challenge classic Old World wine-growing regions. While this wine showed its faded color, its fruit was wildly alluring offering exotic mushrooms, candied fruit, and savory spices. It has reached its peak, yet it offers plenty of enjoyment. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price N/A
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· Joseph Phelps Vineyards Syrah, Napa Valley 1974. While my notes have eluded me, I am quite sure that I tasted this wine when it was young. It was not memorable then and, in this tasting, it showed quite a bit of Brettanomyces and dirt. It did hold up well. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 86 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price N/A
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· Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. I have tasted, evaluated, and consumed lots and lots of Caymus Vineyards throughout my career. One of my best memories is tasting the 1973 vintage out of a 375ml in the basement of Ashbury Market with my sales rep. He said, “Look, Wil, I am holding a bottle of a Cabernet that will become one of Napa Valley’s most famous and renowned in the future.” He was incredibly animated about this “new” winery. I bought the 1973 vintage at a post-off wholesale price of $3.33 and we sold it for $6.00. Then came the 1974 vintage, I drank it multiple times over the decades and while it was highly heralded, I always felt that the trilogy (1972-1973-1974) was close in their respective quality. The 1974 vintage at 40 years old exhibited classic pencil lead with red and black fruits as well as outstanding balance and structure. If kept in a cool cellar, this wine will be fine for another decade. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 95 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $7.00
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· Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. In the 1970s, Chateau Montelena made some excellent and so-so wines. The winery made two in 1974— Alexander Valley and Napa Valley. This wine, holding together well, is elegant and bright with red fruits and a nice bite in the finish. It is at its peak now and needs to be consumed now. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $9.00
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· Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. The Conn Creek Cabernet 1974 is one of my all-time favorite wines. I tasted and enjoyed this wine multiple times when both the wine and I were young. Made by renowned winemaker John Henderson from the highly acclaimed Eisele Vineyard. Showing polished leather, loads of black fruits, and tobacco, this wine stayed long on my palate. It is still outstanding after 40 years. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 97 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $9.00
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· Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill, Napa Valley 1974. When I discovered Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignons decades ago, I became obsessed with tasting each vintage upon release. I even got the chance to taste the Lake (a tiny production) in one vintage. The VVH considered the most powerful of the trio of regular releases, was always fiercely tannic. After 40 years, this wine still has hints of tannins. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 96 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $7.50
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· Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. The Heitz Cellar MV is perhaps the most well-known for this iconic vintage. It shows savory and dried leaves with some mintiness. Blackcurrants and earthiness and hints of dried leather, excellent and persistent in the finish. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 95 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $12.00
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· Inglenook Limited Cask B-8 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. My Inglenook wine notes were scribbled on notepads, in my notebooks, and on the back of napkins. Many of my earliest remembrances were quite excellent, and that includes many Cask wines. This wine offers earth, dust, and leathery notes. While it is past its prime, it drinks quite nicely. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $9.00
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· Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Mountain 1974. Over the years, I have often found Mayacamas Cabs to be rustic and somewhat rough while offering loads of flavors. This wine combines earth and leafiness. It is still frisky and alive on the palate. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $9.50
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· Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains 1974. I routinely tasted the early Mount Eden Vineyards wines as well as the winery’s recent releases, and I have found the wines consistently fine. This wine exhibits dried apricots, dust, forest floor, red fruits, and hints of pencil lead. Bringing a very intriguing mix of nuances to the fore, this wine offers plenty of life but may be at its peak soon. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $20.00
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· Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, California 1974. I have spent plenty of time on Monte Bello Road and with the Ridge team. At Ashbury Market, the Ridge wines were always a hit, probably because I touted them with great energy and excitement. This wine was exciting from its initial release into the marketplace and its popularity continued through the years. At 50 years old, this wine is young and bright with excellent fruit and staying power. Excelling with blackberries, dustiness, dried citrus, and savory spices, it finishes long and classy with hints of smooth tannins in the end. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 97 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $12.00
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· Simi Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1974. Simi Cabs have always been known for its elegance and soft touch. This wine shows that and more. Offering intense spiciness, some tobacco, and dustiness, this wine is all about complexity. While it is slightly past its peak, it is quite enjoyable. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $20.00
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· Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. After gaining its larger-than-life fame with the winery’s 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon in winning in the shot-around-the-world victory in the 1976 Paris Tasting against notable Bordeaux wines, this winery became a household name in the wine world. Since I had that “now famous” wine in stock, I gained new customers overnight, and many of them still follow me to this day. As a young wine, I enjoyed the 1974 Cask 23 and felt that it could age 20+ years. 40 years was not in my thoughts, but this wine is impressive and still going strong. The wine shines with bright red currants and is very stylish, with an elegant finish. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 94 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $12.00
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· Sterling Vineyards Sterling Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. In the early days of the Sterling Vineyard wines, I enjoyed them, but after Ric Forman left, I found the wines perfunctory. They were always solid but lacked excitement. This wine offers dust and leathery notes and is slightly shy in intensity. Its best attributes are style and elegance. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $20.00
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· Villa Mt. Eden Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. From the onset of the Villa Mt Eden wines, I enjoyed them as some of the most enjoyable wines made in the Napa Valley. As a young wine, this wine drank soft and smooth with excellent firmness. Today shows complex nuances of pencil lead, sweet spices, and dried leaves. It is slightly past its peak, but nice on the palate. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price $7.00
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· Chateau St. Jean Johannisberg Riesling Selected Late Harvest, Sonoma County 1974. I remember the excellent Late Harvest Chateau St. Jean Late Harvest Rieslings the winery made in its early days. I probably tasted this wine upon release (those notes are buried in our basement). At 40 years, this wine is dark in color and showing its age showing apricots and toffee and would be sweet dreams with the right dessert. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price N/A
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· Heitz Cellar Cellar Treasure Angelica, California. One seldom gets the opportunity to taste and enjoy an Angelica, and this wine was quite appealing. Nutty aroma with apricots and toffee with an excellent and lively finish. Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Release Retail Price N/A
My career stretches five decades. I cut my teeth on the 1973 California vintage and spent time tasting and researching the classic wines of Europe vintages that were in the market in those days. I tasted plenty of 1974 California Cabernet Sauvignons when they were first released. This tasting of a handful of 1974s was eye-opening as they were more vibrant than I would have imagined them to be. I remarked that in 2023 I am in a battle with aggressive cancer and 2/3 through my chemo treatment, my body is healthy and strong, and the prognosis is very good for full remission (fingers crossed).
Who says, “California wines don’t age.” From this tasting on November 23, 2014, they are wrong, and this was the consensus opinion of the tasters in attendance that night. Email me at Wilfred.willie.wong@gmail.com about old wines that pleasantly surprised you.
Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1974. (Tasted: November 23, 2014, Livermore, CA)
