Bringing the Russian River Valley to my old nearby San Francisco neighborhood- Porter Creek Vineyards
One of the advantages of being in the wine trade is the opportunity to attend vendor and supplier tastings. I recently tasted Porter Creek Vineyards wines at the Cole Valley Tavern, less than six blocks from where I grew up. Tasted eight high-quality well-made wines and opened up another window in is happening in the Russian River Valley excerpt
Porter Creek Chardonnay George’s Hill Vineyard 2019
Charcuterie platter with a glass of the 2018 Porter Creek Vineyards Hillside Reserve
This turn of events proves that once a wine lover tastes fine Burgundy, there is no turning back
Found in 1978 by George Davis who purchased this estate in the Russian River Valley. The Russian River Valley AVA was not recognized until 1983. George’s banker and farm advisor, seeing little value in Pinot Noir, forced him to plant more Chardonnay and less Pinot Noir. The senior Davis not convinced that Pinot Noir was a no-win proposition, encouraged his son Alex to study winemaking at UC Davis and to work multiple vintages in Burgundy. The Holy Grail (Pinot Noir) had bitten George and the rest of his history. This turn of events proves that once a wine lover tastes fine Burgundy, there is no turning back.
Alex took his father’s drive and energy to heart as he worked in Burgundy, met new friends and colleagues, and learned to live in the Pinot Noir world. In early 1997, after his fourth vintage in South Africa, he returned home to ask for the reins. His father eventually “let go of the winemaking and retained his management role in the vineyards.”
When I walked into the Cole Valley Tavern for the tasting, Importer Gregory Condes was still setting up. I tasted nearly 70 wines finding plenty of outstanding wines; the Porter Creek Vineyards wines stood out as some of the best wines on the bar. Below are the 9 wines I tasted:
· Viognier Heyley Vineyard Estate Bottled, Russian River Valley 2019 (RELEASE PRICE: $52) Such a delicious and alluring wine: tangy citrus; hints of minerality: fine weight on the palate; easily one of the best of this grape variety in the marketplace. (My Score: 92 Points)
· Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2018 (RELEASE PRICE: $48) Delicious and precise: tangy mineral notes; excellent balance; persistent; tart citrus and green apple. (My Score: 91 Points)
· Rosé Old Vine, Mendocino County 2020 (RELEASE PRICE: $36) Could be a ringer for a Côtes de Provence: pastel pink color, zesty, tart red fruit; fresh and zingy on the palate and in the finish. (My Score: 90 Points)
· Rosé Old Vine, North Coast 2021 (RELEASE PRICE: $40) Sassy and generous; racy red fruit, almost layered on the palate; rewarding, crisp finish. (My Score: 90 Points)
· Chardonnay George’s Vineyard Estate Bottled Old Vine, Russian River Valley 2019 (RELEASE PRICE: $63) One of the finest Russian River Valley Chardonnays I have tasted: tangy and mineral notes; intense and riveting; well-built, excellent balance; intense mineral, chalk, and tart apple. (My Score: 94 Points)
· Pinot Noir Estate Bottled, Russian River Valley 2019 (RELEASE PRICE: $52) Slightly Old World and quite solid: Rustic, red and black fruit; bright on the palate; dried earth and black fruit; firm finish. (My Score: 92 Points)
· Pinot Noir Fiona Hill Vineyard, Estate Bottled, Russian River Valley 2018 (RELEASE PRICE: $66) Simply outstanding: Intense, tangy red fruit, mineral notes; firm palate with a nice bite; rich and lasting red fruit on the palate. (My Score: 94 Points)
· Pinot Noir Fiona Hill Vineyard, Winegrower’s Reserve, Estate Grown 2018 (RELEASE PRICE: $75) Authentic and Old World: Tangy red fruit, zingy on the palate, alive; earthy, dried fruit, and strawberries. (My Score: 93 Points)
· Pinot Noir Fiona Hill Vineyard Hillside Reserve Estate Grown, Russian River Valley 2018 (Release Price: $95) Aristocratic, the sum of its parts is greater than the individual parts: Powerful, packed; loaded with wild strawberries and blackberries, earthy; firm, layered and long; some floral notes, elegant, yet rich and generous. (My Score: 95 Points)
The Porter Creek Vineyard wines are authentic and masterful. The family has stayed true to its early days and the vision of George Davis. Isn’t it great that family wineries exist in a world of corporate wineries? While wineries of all sizes are important in the mix, the small, artisan producers are often at the forefront of the best any winegrowing region offers, and they keep it real. I enjoyed this tasting not only because I re-discovered an outstanding winery, but I found it while attending a tasting a few blocks from my childhood home. Look at Porter Creek Vineyards; they are nearby if you live in the greater San Francisco Bay Area.
Give them a follow:
Wines ready-to-taste on the bar
