Discovering and re-discovering the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA
The Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains website states, “More than 70 wineries and 200 growers produce wines shaped by the elevation and the ocean’s cooling influence. The region yields elegant wines from small producers specializing in pinot noir, chardonnay, and cabernet sauvignon.” I attended Mountain Wine: Rare trade-tasting with Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers on October 19th and enjoyed an excellent and up-close look at what this AVA is bringing to market.
Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Winery
My first introduction to the wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains was tasting the Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignons from the late 1960s and early 1970s. I often traveled in those days to visit Paul Draper and his team and later, David Bruce of his David Bruce Winery and Ken Burnap of his Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards. Those wines played a prominent role in the selection of Ashbury Market. As my career grew and I went onto larger venues, Napa Valley, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Tuscany, and other famous growing and global wine regions took my attention, and I forgot some of the places that were so pivotal in my wine career.
I tasted 51 wines discovering wines that were not on my radar screen as well as re-visiting those familiar to me
While I was fresh from a 10-day trip to Spain and had tasted 200 wines in two days back in the states, I was determined to attend this tasting, and I was amply rewarded. The event, held at Enoteca La Storia in Los Gatos, was perfect and I was ready to re-engage with the Santa Cruz Mountains wineries. 11 wineries were on-hand. I tasted 51 wines discovering wines that were not on my radar screen as well as re-visiting those familiar to me. Here is my list of notable wines from each winery or brand (In alphabetical order):
· Alfaro Family Vineyards & Winery Through my BevMo years, I became very familiar with this producer. The wines offered loads of character and excellent balance. They brought six wines. The standout was the 2021 Alfaro Family Vineyard & Winery Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains Alfaro Family Vineyard. Vivid with red fruit, wild strawberries, and tangy cranberries, alive from start to finish, perfect with grilled salmon. (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $48
· House Family Vineyards Over the course of my career, I had only tasted their wines in spurts at trade tastings. Since I have been a buyer since 1998, my work was primarily on the research side and what my colleague buyers did was their business. I always found the wines of interest, which was the case at this tasting. They poured six wines, and I found them to be quite engaging. The 2018 House Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains, Coastview Vineyard stood out as an outstanding wine. Generous all around, active on the palate; outstanding red fruit flavors, excellent bite in the finish. Pair it with fresh salmon and avocado handrolls. (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $58.
· Kathryn Kennedy Winery I have known and tasted with winemaker Marty Mathis for close to 40 years. His wines have always impressed me as full and flavorful. Of the three wines he brought, I was most taken by the 2019 Kathryn Kennedy Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Small Lot Cabernet. Showing earth, black fruit, and excellent palate textures; try it with grilled, well-marbled ribeye. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $40
· Lester Family Vineyards This winery was a discovery for me. I recall trying the wines in the past, but today I got a good look. They poured four wines. The 2021 Lester Family Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Rosé of Syrah stole the show. All four wines received solid marks, but the pink wine was the one. Stones in the aroma, and some wild strawberries too! The wine’s zippy disposition makes it a candidate for a raw seafood bar. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $29
· Mindego Ridge I don’t have much history with this winery and the one wine they poured was excellent. The 2017 Mindego Ridge Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains showed excellent green apple flavors and outstanding balance. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $48
· Madson Wines Another new discovery. They poured three wines, and they all showed well. The 2020 Madson Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains “Farmed Organically” is built with excellent tension on the palate. Its flavors of chalky notes and black fruit pair it well with grilled lamb shanks. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $48
· Mount Eden Vineyards They poured five wines, all of which were top-notch. My history with their wines goes back to the 1972 vintage. I have tasted them steadily throughout my career, and they are always in a class of their own. Since I recently mentioned the 2018 Pinot Noir, I will talk about the 2017 Mount Eden Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains. This wine is packed with refined power. Loads of black fruit, oak, and licorice. A mouthful of outstanding Cab. Pair with a ribeye topped with mature blue vein cheese. (My Score 95 Points) Suggested Retail: $100.00
· Ridge Vineyards I have spent a lot of time in the Los Altos Hills on Montebello Road with Paul Draper and the crew. This winery is one of my top three wineries globally. They poured five wines and ironically none of them were from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Though Monte Bello is a legendary wine, I was happy to taste this quintet. The 2020 Ridge Zinfandel, Sonoma Ranch Pagani Ranch was out-of-this-world. Tightknit, yet full of enticing berry fruit; so active on the palate; it would be excellent with a hunter’s stew. (My Score: 94 Points) Suggested Retail: $42
· Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyards When I tasted the 1975 Pinot Noir at the winery in the late 1970s, I was floored. That moment was special. Over the years, I have followed the winery in spurts. They poured six wines, and I found them quite good and worth further attention. The 2021 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Santa Cruz County Handley Vineyard was outstanding. Stony aroma, tense, firm on the palate; should be excellent with linguine and clams. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail: $24
· Storrs Winery I have been a fan of Pamela and Stephen Storrs from the beginning and maintained a consistent flow of tasting their wines. The wines always excite me because they are so real. They poured six wines today, and each of them showed well. The 2020 Storrs Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains Christie Vineyard was outstanding. Compelling apple notes, underlying oakiness, and fine structure. Pair it with Cantonese-style lobster noodles. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail: $33
· Thomas Fogarty As one of the cornerstones of this AVA, they have produced some of the area’s top wines. They poured six wines. I found the 2017 Thomas Fogarty Walker’s Nebbiolo, Santa Cruz Mountains to be special. Dried earth and berries, excellent balance, lively finish. Pair it with a sausage and mushroom pizza and be happy. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail: $65.00
https://www.storrswine.com
The outstanding 2020 Storrs Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains Christie Vineyard
