A Luncheon with Beni di Batasiolo
In November 2022 with the San Francisco International Wine Competition in full swing, I took a day off to attend a luncheon with Fiorenzo Dogliani, his associates, and members of the wine trade. The respite from judging was well worth it. With a backdrop of the cuisine from Perbacco, Mr. Dogliani featured five single vineyard Barolos from 2013, a reserve from 2012, and an old soldier from 1996. This opportunity allowed all of the guests in attendance to take a slower and more deliberate look at the wines as opposed to the usual “cattle call” crowded events. Here are my impressions and scores of the eight wines that were presented.
The Complex, well-aged, and magnificent Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Briccolina 1996. (A Luncheon with Beni di Batasiolo at Perbacco, November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA)
A delicious moment at Perbacco. (A Luncheon with Beni di Batasiolo, November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA)
A Luncheon with Beni di Batasiolo
In November 2022 with the San Francisco International Wine Competition in full swing, I took a day off to attend a luncheon with Fiorenzo Dogliani, his associates, and members of the wine trade. The respite from judging was well worth it. With a backdrop of the cuisine from Perbacco, Mr. Dogliani featured five single vineyard Barolos from 2013, a reserve from 2012, and an old soldier from 1996. This opportunity allowed all of the guests in attendance to take a slower and more deliberate look at the wines as opposed to the usual “cattle call” crowded events. Here are my impressions and scores of the eight wines that were presented.
· Beni di Batasiolo Gavi 2021. I suppose at any Piedmontese meal, one should expect a Gavi, and there it was chilled in a bucket. This wine was the perfect icebreaker as it was bright, lively, and crisp. Showing tart citrus, savory spices, and green apples, I enjoyed this wine to begin the luncheon. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $23
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· Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Bofani 2013. I did not find this wine as tannic as others at the table thought, it manages any rough spots well. With attractive graphite aromas and tangy red fruits, this wine is elegant in a powerful package. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $103
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· Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Brunate 2013. Showing plenty of nuances, this wine deftly combines New and Old World characteristics. Balancing between tangy red fruits and earthy notes. Try it with lightly-spiced stir-fried skirt steak, accented with cracked peppercorns and sesame oil. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $103
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· Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Cerequio 2013. After a quick run-through of all the wines on the table, this one slowly rose to the top. “Cerequio is in the La Morra province in western Piedmont, where the Tortonian soil is made of heavy clay, deposits of magnesium, and some chalk and limestone. The Barolos from this vineyard are a lighter style, perfumed and velvety, with exceptionally long ageability (Beni di Batasiolo).” This wine comes into play with black fruits, earthy notes, enticing spices, and dried leaves. Its strength is its ability to combine power and finesse. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 94 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $103
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· Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Riserva 2012. While I am generally suspicious of reserve wines (because they are often overdone), I found this to be quite excellent. Aged in Slavonian oak for at least 18 months followed by time in stainless steel, the wine’s fruit was upfront and ready to please. Alluring floral notes, intricate nuances, tangy red fruits, and a great bite in the aftertaste. Could be great with BBQ baby back ribs or roast chicken. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $82
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· Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Boscareto 2013. The winery suggests that the Boscareto vineyard produces a bold, elegant style with a great body. I concur with their assessment. Tart red fruits, mineral notes, chalkiness, and great staying power on the palate make this a rewarding wine. Pair it with a full plate of Hawaiian-style beef ribs. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $103
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· Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Briccolina 2013. Looking at the lineup, I thought, “Could the Briccolina be the biggest and “baddest” wine of the lot, and that is why the winery decided to serve it at the end. The winery states, “(The Briccolina has) a southwestern exposure (that can) result in a well-structured, full-bodied wine that can age for 15-20 years.” The balance of a wine is always the marker for me, and bigness doesn’t necessarily mean better. This wine, along with the Cerequio, seemed to score best on my scorecard. This wine has everything one would want in a Nebbiolo: savory spices, rustic earth, bold black fruits; a complete wine. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 94 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $117
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· Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Briccolina 1996. This aged Barolo proved to be an educational opportunity. Wine Spectator rated this vintage in Piedmont 98 Points saying, “Textbook Barolo and Barbaresco; structured, fruity, racy reds.” I will have to look in notebooks (somewhere in my basement) to see my notes from this vintage. This wine is ready-to-drink showing outstanding complexity and maturity. Dried fruit, earthy notes, intense savory spices, persistent and smooth aftertaste, treat for the senses. Tasted: November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA. (My score: 94 Points) Suggested Retail Price: N/A
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· I have tasted a fair amount of Batasiolo wines over the last three decades. While I have enjoyed those wines, the 2013s appear to be among the best wines this winery has made. I hope you have an opportunity to try them. If you do, please let me know what you think. My email is Wilfred.willie.wong@gmail.com.
Happy Members of the wine trade with the principals of Beni de Batasiolo (November 11, 2022, San Francisco, CA)
