Three Saint-Julien 2020s that hit my sweet spot
At the 2020 Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting in San Francisco on January 27, 2023, I tasted nearly all the wines poured, and in the end, three Saint-Juliens hit my sweet spot. While this is not an exhaustive look at the appellation—since many of my favorites (Ducru-Beaucaillou, Léoville-las-Cases, and Branaire-Ducru were not present, or I missed. Nevertheless, Châteaux Léoville Barton, Lagrange, and Gruaud Larose showed very well and are worthy choices for wine lovers.
Château Léoville Barton. (June 23, 2006, Saint-Julien, France)
Château Lagrange 2020. (June 23, 2006, Saint-Julien, France)
In my travels to Bordeaux over the years, I have always found Saint Julien to be one of my favorite appellations to visit and taste. The wines are generally elegant yet full-framed and match my sometimes-New World palate. When I visited and dined with my BevMo colleagues Peter Chai, Bill Hayes, and Los Angeles Importer Mozy Tehrani (Exclusive Imports), we learned much more about the area than what we would have gotten from reading out of a book. Speaking with winemakers and winery owners, I learned priceless lessons that I could never get from simply trade tastings, wine reviewers, and the usual way wine professionals acquire their information.
The 2020 vintage looks like a good drinking vintage with excellent mid to long-term aging potential. These three wines are almost drinking now; they will be ready for enjoyment within a half-a-dozen years or so. Without further ado, here are three Saint-Julien 2020s that hit my sweet spot.
· Château Léoville Barton 2020. I have been tasting this property’s wines over the past four decades, and the wines continue to improve. They were impressive then, but they seem to be more consistent and are now arriving at the top of the class challenging wines twice their price. This vintage shows an outstanding combination of style, richness, and staying power. Made from 85.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14.5% Merlot, it shows black fruits, fragrant spices, and oaky nuances. Could be great with a pan-fried flank steak topped with minced shallots in a few years, but if you can age it for a decade, it will be sublime. Tasted: January 27, 2023, San Francisco, CA. (My Score: 95 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $89.
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· Château Lagrange 2020. I have visited Château Lagrange on many occasions, and I remember how delicious the wines paired with the meals we enjoyed there. Historically, Lagrange has produced wines of elegance with only a suggestion of oakiness. This vintage is just as I remember it, but perhaps with a bit more oomph than in the past. Bright and jazz, this pleasingly persistent wine shows red and blackcurrants, some chalkiness, and trace oakiness. Give it a try with rotisserie chicken. It can be served in a few years, and it will age up to 15 years. Tasted: January 27, 2023, San Francisco, CA. (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $62.
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· Château Gruaud Larose 2020. “The Wine of Kings, the King of Wines” is the motto of this château, and indeed it lives up to its word. In the past. Over the years, I have enjoyed an up-and-down relationship with these wines. I found its oak treatment too harsh, though I still enjoyed sipping on the wines. This vintage offers an excellent balance of all its parts. This wine gushes with plenty of ripe fruit, and its oakiness nicely stays in the background. This is the perfect choice with a medium-grilled, well-marbled ribeye. Give it a few years in the cellar, and it will become rewarding and formidable. Tasted: January 27, 2023, San Francisco, CA. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $89.
In a wine world with thousands of choices, Saint-Julien offers some of the best values among the highest touted wines and competes well against international stars costing two to three times its asking price. This trio represents just a few of the wines, look at others and let me know what you find. I will keep up my search and update my notes and hopefully discover and re-discover properties I have known from forays to the Left Bank of Bordeaux.
Château Léoville Barton 2020
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