Albariño, An Alternative White Wine
Albariño from Galicia, Spain (or Alvarinho, as it is called in Portugal) is an excellent food-pairing wine. When I discovered the grape variety over 30 years ago, I immediately knew it was a wine I could serve often. Yet, with so many other wines in the mix, I sometimes went away from it, favoring the more well-known grape varieties (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio). As I transition from retail to full-time wine research, tasting, and writing, I can give more attention to the entire field of wine.
La Caña Navia Albariño, Rías Baixas 2020 (Spain). Starbright in color, this wine delivers dried earth, chalky notes, and rocks in the desert.
Cadre Sea Queen Albariño, Edna Valley 2021 (California, USA). This wine drinks famously well. Earthy notes, dried fruits, green apples, minerality, bright finish.
Jorge Ordóñez, one of the industry’s most heralded Spanish wine experts, introduced Albariño to me in the early 1990s. I tasted his wines on many occasions as I added them to my growing Ashbury Market selections, making Spain more of a focal point. When I joined BevMo in 1995 as its first imported wine buyer, I continued my journey with Jorge; he opened the door to Spanish wines for me, and I increased the Spanish wine SKU count. At Wine.com, there was never a shortage of wines for me to taste. Jorge’s son, Victor, has now taken over running his dad’s company, making sure that I stay current with their selections.
In 2022, I tasted more Albariño than I had in recent years, and from many importers as well as California producers. The quality of these wines continues to improve. Here is my list of ten favorite Albariños I tasted last year.
· Atlantis by Maetierra Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021 (Spain). On my first go-around with this producer, I found this wine shining with Old and New World notes. Savory spices, earthy notes, full weight on the palate, lively acidity; spicy, chalky; pair it with steamed clams in a light garlicky sauce. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $18.
· Blanquito Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021 (Spain). One of the most food-friendly wines on this list. This was a 2022 discovery for me. Tangy citrus, mineral notes, dried herbs, and apples. Fresh and smooth in the finish, try it with a bay shrimp salad. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $15.
· Brecon Estate Acacia Head Albariño, San Luis Obispo 2021 (California, USA). With its talented team of Damian Grindley, Simon Hackett, Amanda Grindley, and Anna Hackett, this winery looks like an up-and-coming star. I tasted this wine as a judge on the sweepstakes round at the 2022 San Francisco International Wine Competition, and it was outstanding. Medium straw color, fragrant floral notes, fresh, vibrant, layered, lively stone fruits, and a lasting finish. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $41.
· Cadre Sea Queen Albariño, Edna Valley 2021 (California, USA). Cadre is an up-and-coming Central Coast producer. Owner John Niven is focused on producing top-level wines, and he is doing that! This wine drinks famously well. Earthy notes, dried fruits, green apples, minerality, bright finish. Enjoy it with steamed mussels with an accent of red chili flakes. (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $28.
· La Caña Navia Albariño, Rías Baixas 2020 (Spain). La Caña, from the Ordóñez stable, is a wine I am familiar with, as I have had many vintages over the years. Starbright in color, this wine delivers dried earth, chalky notes, and rocks in the desert. Enjoy its firm and lasting finish with ginger-accented, freshly steamed crab legs. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $36.
· The Fableist Wine Company The Fox and the Stork Fable 426 Albariño, Central Coast 2021 *California, USA). I have become fascinated with the wines The Fableist Wine Company is making. There is never a shortage of personality. Winemakers Curt Schalchlin & Andrew Jones are carving out a niche as excellent artisan producers. This wine offers mineral and stony notes, chalky and peach skin, and citrus. Serve it with a plate of linguine and clams. (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $16.
· Fillaboa® Selección Finca Monte Alto Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021 (Spain). An authentic wine offering savory spices, rustic earth, and mineral notes. Pair it with pan-fried sand dabs. (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $33.
· Garzón Albariño Reserva, Uruguay 2021 (Uruguay). A lovely, charming, and bright wine from Uruguay, Garzón is a top-notch producer. This wine offers floral notes, ripe fruits, stone fruits, and a smooth finish. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $20.
· Herdade Do Esporão Bico Amarelo, Vino Verde 2021 (Portugal). Made from Alvarinho de Monção (Synonym for Albariño) e Melgaço and Avesso de Baião, this wine is aromatic and pleasing. Fragrant spices, quite fruity, ripe citrus, apples. Pair it with pan-seared sea scallops. (My Score: 89 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $12.
· Pazo Cilleiro Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021 (Spain). I always enjoy discovering new producers, and Bodegas Pazo Cilleiro was one of my favorites in 2022. This wine is fresh, delicate, and alive. Soft chalkiness, light earthiness, tart apple, dried citrus. Perfect with tuna carpaccio. (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $20.
As you can see, Rías Baixas is the place for Albariños. This is where I and many others cut our teeth on this grape variety. Over the past decade or two, many places beyond Spain have been producing Albariños too. In 2022, I was expanding my search, and in 2023, I will actively look for other places in the world where this grape variety thrives. Happy New Year 2023, I will be more adventurous in hopes of finding more discoveries. I hope you do the same. Please let me know if you have favorites. Please let me know how you feel about Albariños or if I left off your favorites. You can email me at Wilfred.willie.wong@gmail.com
The Fableist Wine Company The Fox and the Stork Fable 426 Albariño, Central Coast 2021 *California, USA). This wine offers mineral and stony notes, chalky and peach skin, and citrus.
