An Epiphany in La Consulta and when I began my love affair with Malbec
On February 3, 2011, I discovered that Malbec was more than a pretty face. While I routinely drank everyday Mendoza Malbec, savored a few Cahors, I did not put this grape variety into the iconic world. That day opened the doors to further exploration of Malbec.
Altocedro Winery (February 3, 2011, La Consulta, Argentina)
Altocedro Vineyards (February 3, 2011, La Consulta, Argentina)
Traveling to South America in the early 2000s with my BevMo teammates, our vendors, and suppliers gave me opportunities to take a deep dive into some of the finest wines in Argentina and Chile. Our visit with Karim Mussi Saffie at Altocedro in La Consulta on February 3, 2011, introduced me to a world that was not on my radar. Among the half-a-dozen wines I tasted was the 2009 Altocedro Gran Reserva Malbec. The wine took me into an almost out-of-body experience and reminded me of when I tasted iconic wines in California, France, and Italy. In 2022, I tasted about 40 Malbec. This year, I plan to double that number and expand my search beyond the usual worldwide sites.
· Altocedro Gran Reserve Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019 (Argentina). I met Altocedro’s Proprietor/Winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie on many occasions in both the United States and in Argentina. He is driven, intense, and spell bounding. He founded his family winery in 1999 on the principles of producing true terroir wines. Made from original old vine rootstocks, indigenous yeasts, and hundred-year-old concrete tanks, he brought the best from the Uco Valley to the world. This vintage is complex and riveting. Dried Spices, dried leaves, earthy notes, black fruits, and mineral notes ooze out of the bottle. (My Score: 94 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $50.
· Familia Bianchi Malbec, Mendoza 2021 (Argentina). Made from the San Rafael area of Mendoza, this wine shows up with an excellent combination of rusticity and New World fruitiness. Savory spices, blackberries, and oak add to the wine’s nuances. Enjoy it with carnitas burritos. (My Score: 90 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $20.
· Browne Family Vineyards Bitner Estate Malbec, Columbia Valley 2018 (United States) Winemaker John Freeman states, “Two weeks of extremely hot weather towards the end of summer allowed fruit to hang a little longer too.” Indeed, this is a powerful example of this grape variety. Plenty of blackberries, licorice, and oak make this wine satisfying from start to finish. Serve it with braised short ribs. (My Score: 92 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $48.
· Burlington Chandler Estate Grown Malbec, Jahant – Lodi 2017 (United States) My friend, colleague, and wine professional Mark Chandler introduced this wine to me, and I found it attractive for its brightness and liveliness. Active berries a-plenty, with a shading of oak. Try it with a chicken, veggie, noodle bake. (My Score: 91 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $26.
· Catena Zapata Argentino Vineyard Malbec 2019 (Argentina). Nicolás Catena and his daughter, Laura Catena, and Winemaker: Alejandro Vigil produced a magnificent Malbec with this offering. Made with open barriques & small stainless steel tanks, this wine shows power and finesse. With formidable black fruits, mineral notes, and balanced oak nuances, this wine delivers a lasting impression on the palate. Pair it with braised lamb shanks with a sprinkling of parmesan cheese and crushed black peppercorns. (My Rating: 98 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $120.
· Château Du Caillau Cahors Malbec 2020 (France). Château Du Caillou is produced by Chateau Clos de La Coutale, which has been in the same family for six generations. This wine deftly combines rusticity and up-front fruitiness. It offers dried earth, savory spices, and blackberries. Its soft tannins and richness on the palate make it an excellent coq au vin wine. (My Rating: 90 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $32.
· Flechas de Los Andes Gran Malbec, Mendoza 2017 (Argentina) Flechas de los Andes was born from the partnership between Baron Benjamin de Rothschild and Laurent Dassault. The name “Flechas de los Andes” or “Andes arrows” refers to the 5 arrows, the symbol of the Rothschild family representing five brothers at the origin of this dynasty of entrepreneurs. As I tasted this wine, I could visualize the founders’ desire to retain Old World values yet allowing the New World to be present in the wine. Savory spices, ripe berries, tar, and an elevated palate. Serve it with grilled London Broil. (My Rating: 91 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $20.
· Niento Senetiner Don Nicanor Malbec, Mendoza 2020 (Argentina). Niento Senetiner, a winery with over 130 years of tradition produces an array of excellent wines. Its history began in 1888 with a group of Italian immigrants. In 1969, the Niento and Senetiner families purchased the farm and by 1998 incorporated Molinos Rio de la Plata, one of the country’s leading food and beverage companies. I have been tasting the wines for over a decade and am impressed with their high quality. This wine delivers plenty of rewards at its price. Explosive berries, black fruits, and fine palate textures. Try it with pan-fried pepper steak with red and green peppers and onions. (My Rating: 90 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $19.
· Oak Farm Vineyards Estate Grown Malbec, Lodi 2020 (United States). I discovered this wine when I judged in the 2022 North of the Gate Wine Competition. It showed exceptionally well in the sweepstakes round. Third-generation farmer Dan Panella purchased this historic property (acquired in 1860 by William DeVries and his wife Cornelia Crowe. Mr. Panella replanted the property’s 60 acres in 2012 with the goal of putting Lodi on the viticultural map. This is full-bodied and well-balanced and offers ripe, jammy berries that say long and delicious on the palate. Serve it with slow-cooked lamb shanks. (My Rating: 92 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $35.
· Sur de Los Andes Reserva Malbec, Mendoza 2018 (Argentina). Bodega Sur de los Andes was created by Guillermo Banfi, an Argentine professional who entered the wine industry in 2002. In 2005, Mr. Banfi hired winemaker Pablo Durigutti, one of Argentina’s young stars, and established Sur de Los Andes, his dream boutique winery. This wine is packed and weighted on the palate as it delivers blackberries, rustic earth notes, and savory spices. Pair it with slow-cooked beef and pork. (My Rating: 91 Points). Suggested Retail Price: $28.
My Malbec journey has taken nearly three decades. When it was positioned as an everyday, value wine. I fell into the trap of leaving in the category of simple, serviceable wines. With so many wines to cover, I pigeonholed it until I met Karim Mussi Saffie on his turf in La Consulta, Argentina. As my career and opportunity to cover more Malbecs than ever, I learned that it wasn’t just Argentina and France and that has grown my appreciation of this once nice, everyday wine. I hope you try some of these wines on my list and find others. Please email me at Wilfred.willie.wong@gmail on what your favorites are, and I will add them to my tasting schedule. Cheers!
Altocedro Vineyards (February 3, 2011, La Consulta, Argentina)
