Rosés, rosés, and rosés
In the 1970s, pink wines were mostly “soda pop offerings” that included White Zinfandels, Cold Duck, and other wines with sugary finishes. While these wines are and will always have a following, rosé wines have graduated into the category of distinctive, high-quality food wines.
ROSE GOLD Rosé, Côtes de Provence 2021. Founder Casey Barber is the inspirational force behind this elegant, stylish, and alluring wine.
Bonny Doon Vineyard Pink Wine of the Earth – Vin Gris de Cigare, Central Coast 2021. Randall Grahm, always ahead of his time, makes this wine “from the lightest pressing of red grapes.”
At Ashbury Market in 1973, Gallo Pink Chablis in a 750-ML bottle was one of our best sellers. Almaden Mountain Nectar Rosé was our 1.5-liter top offering of the two or three we sold. As we moved our corner grocery store offerings into our hand-selection of wines, three of our star features were the Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, Beaulieu Vineyards Grenache Rosé, and Robert Mondavi Winery Gamay Rosé. Today, the scene is way different.
At the beginning of upscale rosé wines, the marketplace saw an explosion of blush wines (White Zinfandel was everywhere). Sutter Home Winery and Beringer gained remarkable market share with their medium sweet profile offerings. Smaller wineries were beginning to produce drier examples, and this was just the beginning. While there will always be a market demand for semi-sweet pink wines, food-pairing, dry rosés have firmly found consumers ready to buy. In 2022, I tasted more rosés and from more places than I have ever done. This is a list of 10 of my favorites from the year.
· Bonny Doon Vineyard Pink Wine of the Earth – Vin Gris de Cigare, Central Coast 2021. Randall Grahm, always ahead of his time, makes this wine “from the lightest pressing of red grapes.” It has always been one of my favorites throughout the years. This vintage exhibits a medium pink salmon color that is intense and crisp. Dried earth cherries make it an excellent choice with Thai basil chicken. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $15.
· Hampton Water Rosé, Languedoc 2021. When Jon Bon Joví and his son Jesse Bongiovi were introduced to Gérard Bertrand, they formed a collaboration that brought excitement to the rosé category. With aims to weave the relaxed styles of the Hamptons and the South of France, this wine has become a crowd favorite. This vintage is lively, bright, and alluring. Dried earthy notes, bouncy on the palate, bright cherries, and a slightly elevated presence. Served it while where shorts and sandals on a warm day or inside by the kitchen table on a cool day and gentle conversations. Pairs well with Pad Thai. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $15.
· La Fouquette Côtes de Provence Rosé 2021. The Côtes de Provence is one of my go-to places for rosés; this wine is satisfying and lasting on the palate. Made from 65% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, and 5% Rolle, this wine is light pink with dried earth, sandalwood, and lively red fruits. Try it with grilled oysters wrapped in lightly smoked bacon. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $21.
· Les Lauzeraies Tavel 2021. This wine is on point as a rosé from the Rhône Valley. Light red, ruby color; rich and lasting on the palate; red fruits abound; elevated and long in the finish. Pair it with steamed Dungeness crab in a ginger and scallion sauce. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $18.
· Lorenza True Rosé, Lodi 2021. Brought to market by the mother-daughter duo of Melinda Kearney and Michèle Ouellet as they shared their love of Provence Rosé. This is one of my favorite family wine stories of the year. This wine–made from 44% Mourvèdre, 27% Carignan, 17% Cinsault, and 12% Grenache–epitomizes beauty, elegance, and style. Light pastel pink color, fragrant red fruits, and floral notes. Enjoy this charming wine with fresh salmon and avocado handrolls. (My Score: 92 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $24.
· Minuty Prestige Rosé, Côtes de Provence 2021. Minuity Prestige appeared over 25 years ago when Jean-Etienne and François Matton wanted to expand the world’s audience to the excellence of this wine region in France. My first exposure to this wine was memorable. On a hectic tasting day, I enjoyed a glass of this wine at Akiko Restaurant, and for a brief half hour, my day seemed to calm down as if I was suddenly transported to the South of France. This vintage is light, delicate, and persistent. Sandalwood, honeydew, mineral notes; long finish. Serve it with the freshest and best sashimi and all will be good. (My Score: 93 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $33.
· Quivira Vineyards Wine Creek Ranch Rosé, Dry Creek Valley 2021. I have followed Quivira Vineyards since their maiden vintage, and decades later this winery is still excellent. Now under the proprietorship of Pete and Terri Knight, I expect this winery to continue its path to the top. This wine, a blend of 70% Grenache, 11% Counoise, 9% Mourvèdre, 5% Petite Sirah, and 5% Primitivo, is rock solid and beautiful. Light salmon color; mineral and stones-in-the-desert, tart, biting red fruits, raspberries a-plenty, lively finish. Pair it with grilled salmon fillets. (My Score: 90 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $25.
· ROSE GOLD Rosé, Côtes de Provence 2021. Founder Casey Barber is the inspirational force behind this elegant, stylish, and alluring wine. Light and delicate pink color, tangy red fruits, a slight mineral note, hints of sandalwood, crisp and bright in the finish. Perfect in the backyard with friends, conversation, and salmon terrine. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $22.
· Saracina Rosé of Grenache, Mendocino County 2021. Alex MacGregor is one of the coolest winemakers I have met recently. I tasted many of his wines at a luncheon at BrewVino in San Francisco in October 2021, and I have begun following him in earnest. This is light in color and offers mineral notes, bright red fruits, and hints of savory spices. Enjoy its crisp finish with linguine and clams. (My Score: 91 Points) Suggested Retail Price: $20.
· Triennes Méditerranée Rosé 2021. “In 1989, two Burgundians, Jacques Seysses, founder of Domaine Dujac, and Aubert de Villaine, joined by their Parisian friend, Michel Macaux, went in search of new vineyards. Their attention turned to southern France where they were convinced the potential for great wines was enormous.” (http://www.triennes.com/en/about/) I have visited both Domaine Dujac and Domaine de la Romanée Conti. I was excited when this Jacques Seysses, Aubert de Villaine, and their friend (whom I have never met), Michael Macaux joined to form Triennes. This wine is pleasing, bright, and easy on the palate. It is dry without being overly acidic. Bright red fruits, hints of earthiness, and a smooth ride to the end. Enjoy it with a tray of endless raw oysters. (My Rating: 90 Points) Suggested Retail: 18.
Rosé Wines comes in many styles. Whether you are looking for a candied, soda pop wine or a fine food-matching wine, each style is legitimate. While the trend of the current rosé explosion continues full speed ahead, one must respect and embrace all of this genre’s expressions. I will continue to explore all the pink forms. This list is 10 of my favorites from this past year. Cheers to all you wine lovers out there!
Lorenza True Rosé, Lodi 2021. Brought to market by the mother-daughter duo of Melinda Kearney and Michèle Ouellet as they shared their love of Provence Rosé.
